Go into the really dark room, not the one with the light, and take out the film. Make sure their is no light at all. Pull the flat part of the canister, unwind and remove the end of the film and remove the spool by pealing off the tap that connects it. I'm going to use the plastic film reel because its simple to slid one end of the film into a slot on the outer edge the reel. Then i will walk it till it is loaded. Put the loaded reel in the film tank and then put a cover over it. now we can use the lights.Now that it is time to process the film! We will lay out the chemicals in front of us. We will be using a film developer, stop bath, a fixer with hardener, and a hypo eliminator bath.Make sure the chemicals temperature is controlled. The developing time is directed by the speed of the film and the developers temperature. The temperature should at least be 68-70, somewhere around there, for processing. Now we will pour the developer into the open part of the sealed film tank and cover it. We don't want to open the tank itself. Agitation is essential throughout the process, so to do this we will turn the take upside down once a minute. When we are done with this we will tap it a couple of times to remove air bubbles. To stop the developing, we will run watter into the pour spout for a minute. Now you can use a normal light to fix the image, but we have to be sure to use a fixer with a hardener so the photo doesn't get scratched up. This will take about 5 to 10 minutes. Then it is time to remove the tank cover and let the film sit in cold water for five minutes. After that we can remove all the traces of the fixer. We will pour a tank of hypo eliminator and sit for two minutes, then a final was for about 5 minutes.
Now be really careful and take the film out of the tank, make sure to use the washing pins and hang the film to dry. In about two hours it will be dry. We will cut the film into strips six negatives long. We will store them in clear envelopes or some pvc plastic negative pages.

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